時光荏苒，轉眼小編已是入職3年多的成熟職場人了。和當年不知如何挑選商務正裝款式的小白相比，此刻的小編開始關注衣著的質感。

　　Time flies, and in the blink of an eye, I have become a mature professional who has been employed for over 3 years. Compared to the novices who didn't know how to choose business dress styles back then, now the editor is paying attention to the texture of clothing.

　　俗話說“衣不在多而在精”，又俗話說“穿貴不如穿對”，帶著這些疑問，小編詳細咨詢了深耕定制西裝行業多年的老師傅，總結出了下面關于商務正裝選擇的干貨。

　　As the saying goes, "Clothes are not in abundance, but in refinement", and as the saying goes, "It's better to wear them right than to wear them expensive". With these questions in mind, the editor consulted a master who has been deeply involved in the custom suit industry for many years and summarized the following tips for choosing business formal attire.

　　Part 01. 成衣 or 定制？

　　Part 01. Ready to wear or customized?

　　所謂成衣（Ready to wear），是指直接可以買到的西裝，款式固定，采用標準尺碼。成衣剪裁要滿足大眾身材需求，很難買到100%貼合個人身材的。成衣從幾百到上萬不等，主要區別在于、面料、設計剪裁。

　　The so-called ready to wear refers to suits that can be purchased directly, with fixed styles and standard sizes. Ready to wear tailoring must first meet the needs of the general public's body shape, and it is difficult to buy one that fits 100% of an individual's body shape. The price of ready to wear clothing ranges from a few hundred to tens of thousands, with the main differences being the brand, fabric, design, and cutting.

　　全定制（Bespoke）西裝顧名思義是真正意義的一人一版，從設計、剪裁到面料選擇都能滿足個性化需求，自然、定制周期長，對做工要求也。一般好的全定制西裝都是幾千起步，面料、量體、做工等都會影響。

　　Bespoke suits, as the name suggests, are truly one-man suits that can meet personalized needs from design, cutting to fabric selection. They are naturally the most expensive, have a long customization cycle, and require the highest level of craftsmanship. Generally, a good fully customized suit starts at a few thousand yuan, and factors such as fabric, measurement, and workmanship can all affect the price.

　　在成衣和全定制之間還有一種叫半定制（MTM），即在固定樣板基礎上根據個人身材進行二次剪裁，雖然沒有全定制可發揮空間大，但勝在性價比更高。

　　There is another type between ready to wear and full customization called semi customization (MTM), which involves secondary cutting based on individual body shape on a fixed template. Although it may not have as much room for creativity as full customization, it is more cost-effective.

　　在選擇時需要綜合考量預算、使用場合以及貼合度。

　　When making a choice, it is necessary to consider the budget, usage scenario, and fit comprehensively.

　　Part 02. 商務正裝的面料選擇

　　Part 02. Fabric Selection for Business Dress

　　西裝面料有人造（聚酯纖維等）、天然（羊絨、羊毛、海馬毛、真絲、亞麻、純棉等）兩大類。一套有質感西裝天然面料，羊毛因為具有透氣、抗皺、柔軟舒適等特性，是常見的商務正裝面料，通常高端西裝都是含毛量95%以上。亞麻、純棉等則多見于商務休閑裝。

　　There are two main types of suit fabrics: synthetic (polyester fiber, etc.) and natural (cashmere, wool, seahorse hair, silk, linen, pure cotton, etc.). Natural fabrics are the preferred choice for a textured suit. Wool is the most common business suit fabric due to its breathable, wrinkle resistant, soft and comfortable properties. Typically, high-end suits have a wool content of over 95%. Flax, pure cotton, etc. are more commonly seen in business casual wear.

　　雖然純聚酯纖維常見于一些低端西裝，但也有不少中端商務正裝會選擇羊毛+聚酯纖維混紡，兼顧了羊毛的透氣、抗皺和化纖的光感、耐磨、易打理。含毛量從30%到90%不等，與含毛量成正比，也是很好的性價比之選。

　　Although pure polyester fiber is commonly used in some low-end suits, there are also many mid-range business suits that choose a blend of wool and polyester fiber, which balances the breathability and wrinkle resistance of wool with the light sensitivity, wear resistance, and ease of care of synthetic fibers. The wool content ranges from 30% to 90%, and the price is proportional to the wool content, making it a great cost-effective choice.

　　Part 03. 羊毛面料怎么選

　　Part 03. How to choose wool fabric

　　根據工藝不同，羊毛面料又可以分為羊毛精紡和羊毛粗紡兩大類，其中羊毛精紡質地輕薄常用于春秋西裝，粗紡質地厚重是秋冬西裝。

　　According to different processes, wool fabrics can be divided into two categories: wool fine spinning and wool coarse spinning. Among them, wool fine spinning with a light and thin texture is commonly used in spring and autumn suits, while coarse spinning with a thick and heavy texture is the preferred choice for autumn and winter suits.

　　在選擇西裝時我們還會看到一個術語——支數，是羊毛面料細膩和柔軟程度的參數，支數越高面料越細膩柔軟，一般商務正裝面料支數在110-130之間。需要注意的是商務正裝面料支數的選擇并不是越高越好，超過150支的面料會非常脆弱易皺，不易打理。

　　When choosing a suit, we also see a term - count, which is a parameter of the fineness and softness of wool fabric. The higher the count, the finer and softer the fabric. Generally, the count of business formal fabrics is between 110-130. It should be noted that the choice of fabric count for business formal wear is not necessarily better, as fabrics with more than 150 counts are very fragile and prone to wrinkling, making them difficult to maintain.

　　面料支數相同的情況下還應該關注克重，即每平米面料的重量?？酥卦礁?，面料更飽滿和挺拔。通常春夏季款克重在200-240g，秋冬300g以上，如果需要一套四季通用的商務正裝，260-280g。

　　When the fabric count is the same, attention should also be paid to the weight per square meter of fabric. The higher the weight, the fuller and more upright the fabric. Usually, the weight of spring and summer styles is 200-240g, and autumn and winter styles are over 300g. If you need a set of business suits that are suitable for all seasons, we recommend 260-280g.

　　在支數、克重相同的情況下，影響面料好壞的因素還有羊毛產地、織造工藝。的羊毛主要來自于澳洲、新西蘭的美麗諾（mereno）綿羊，如果預算足夠可選擇英國、意大利面料，這也是市面上高端西裝的選擇；追求性價比的話也可以選擇國產或者韓國羊毛面料。

　　In the case of the same count and weight, the factors that affect the quality of the fabric include the origin of the wool and the weaving process. The top wool mainly comes from Merino sheep in Australia and New Zealand. If the budget is sufficient, you can choose British and Italian fabric brands, which are also the choices for high-end suits on the market; If you pursue cost-effectiveness, you can also choose domestic or Korean wool fabrics.

　　此外，還可以根據個人喜好、穿著場合選擇羊毛織造紋理。純色西裝是通用的，是大部分人套商務正裝的選擇；更進一步追求個性化，還有窗格、格林格、鳥眼、千鳥格、鯊魚紋、魚骨紋、條紋、粉筆條紋的可以選擇。

　　In addition, wool weaving textures can be selected according to personal preferences and wearing occasions. Solid color suits are versatile and the first choice for most people's business attire; Going further in pursuit of personalization, there are also options to choose from, such as window frames, green grids, bird eyes, thousand bird grids, shark patterns, fishbone patterns, stripes, and chalk stripes.

　　在行業內有個說法“面料是西裝的靈魂”，不僅直接影響西裝的色彩、造型，選對面料還可以更好地詮釋西裝的風格，讓人穿上如有加持。

　　There is a saying in the industry that 'fabric is the soul of a suit', which not only directly affects the color and shape of the suit, but also allows people to better interpret the style of the suit by choosing the right fabric, giving it a sense of blessing when worn.

　　商務正裝面料的介紹就到這里了，希望大家都能如愿選到自己的職場“戰衣”。

　　That's all for the introduction of business formal fabrics. I hope everyone can choose their own workplace "battle clothes" as they wish.

　　本文由 濟南工作服  友情奉獻.更多有關的知識請點擊  http://www.lihwa.cn/   真誠的態度.為您提供為的服務.更多有關的知識我們將會陸續向大家奉獻.敬請期待.　　時光荏苒，轉眼小編已是入職3年多的成熟職場人了。和當年不知如何挑選商務正裝款式的小白相比，此刻的小編開始關注衣著的質感。

　　This article is a friendly contribution from Jinan workwear For more related knowledge, please click http://www.lihwa.cn/ Sincere attitude To provide you with comprehensive services We will gradually contribute more relevant knowledge to everyone Coming soon. Time flies, and in the blink of an eye, I have become a mature professional who has been employed for over 3 years. Compared to the novices who didn't know how to choose business dress styles back then, now the editor is paying attention to the texture of clothing.

　　俗話說“衣不在多而在精”，又俗話說“穿貴不如穿對”，帶著這些疑問，小編詳細咨詢了深耕定制西裝行業多年的老師傅，總結出了下面關于商務正裝選擇的干貨。

　　As the saying goes, "Clothes are not in abundance, but in refinement", and as the saying goes, "It's better to wear them right than to wear them expensive". With these questions in mind, the editor consulted a master who has been deeply involved in the custom suit industry for many years and summarized the following tips for choosing business formal attire.

　　Part 01. 成衣 or 定制？

　　Part 01. Ready to wear or customized?

　　所謂成衣（Ready to wear），是指直接可以買到的西裝，款式固定，采用標準尺碼。成衣剪裁要滿足大眾身材需求，很難買到100%貼合個人身材的。成衣從幾百到上萬不等，主要區別在于、面料、設計剪裁。

　　The so-called ready to wear refers to suits that can be purchased directly, with fixed styles and standard sizes. Ready to wear tailoring must first meet the needs of the general public's body shape, and it is difficult to buy one that fits 100% of an individual's body shape. The price of ready to wear clothing ranges from a few hundred to tens of thousands, with the main differences being the brand, fabric, design, and cutting.

　　全定制（Bespoke）西裝顧名思義是真正意義的一人一版，從設計、剪裁到面料選擇都能滿足個性化需求，自然、定制周期長，對做工要求也。一般好的全定制西裝都是幾千起步，面料、量體、做工等都會影響。

　　Bespoke suits, as the name suggests, are truly one-man suits that can meet personalized needs from design, cutting to fabric selection. They are naturally the most expensive, have a long customization cycle, and require the highest level of craftsmanship. Generally, a good fully customized suit starts at a few thousand yuan, and factors such as fabric, measurement, and workmanship can all affect the price.

　　在成衣和全定制之間還有一種叫半定制（MTM），即在固定樣板基礎上根據個人身材進行二次剪裁，雖然沒有全定制可發揮空間大，但勝在性價比更高。

　　There is another type between ready to wear and full customization called semi customization (MTM), which involves secondary cutting based on individual body shape on a fixed template. Although it may not have as much room for creativity as full customization, it is more cost-effective.

　　在選擇時需要綜合考量預算、使用場合以及貼合度。

　　When making a choice, it is necessary to consider the budget, usage scenario, and fit comprehensively.

　　Part 02. 商務正裝的面料選擇

　　Part 02. Fabric Selection for Business Dress

　　西裝面料有人造（聚酯纖維等）、天然（羊絨、羊毛、海馬毛、真絲、亞麻、純棉等）兩大類。一套有質感西裝天然面料，羊毛因為具有透氣、抗皺、柔軟舒適等特性，是常見的商務正裝面料，通常高端西裝都是含毛量95%以上。亞麻、純棉等則多見于商務休閑裝。

　　There are two main types of suit fabrics: synthetic (polyester fiber, etc.) and natural (cashmere, wool, seahorse hair, silk, linen, pure cotton, etc.). Natural fabrics are the preferred choice for a textured suit. Wool is the most common business suit fabric due to its breathable, wrinkle resistant, soft and comfortable properties. Typically, high-end suits have a wool content of over 95%. Flax, pure cotton, etc. are more commonly seen in business casual wear.

　　雖然純聚酯纖維常見于一些低端西裝，但也有不少中端商務正裝會選擇羊毛+聚酯纖維混紡，兼顧了羊毛的透氣、抗皺和化纖的光感、耐磨、易打理。含毛量從30%到90%不等，與含毛量成正比，也是很好的性價比之選。

　　Although pure polyester fiber is commonly used in some low-end suits, there are also many mid-range business suits that choose a blend of wool and polyester fiber, which balances the breathability and wrinkle resistance of wool with the light sensitivity, wear resistance, and ease of care of synthetic fibers. The wool content ranges from 30% to 90%, and the price is proportional to the wool content, making it a great cost-effective choice.

　　Part 03. 羊毛面料怎么選

　　Part 03. How to choose wool fabric

　　根據工藝不同，羊毛面料又可以分為羊毛精紡和羊毛粗紡兩大類，其中羊毛精紡質地輕薄常用于春秋西裝，粗紡質地厚重是秋冬西裝。

　　According to different processes, wool fabrics can be divided into two categories: wool fine spinning and wool coarse spinning. Among them, wool fine spinning with a light and thin texture is commonly used in spring and autumn suits, while coarse spinning with a thick and heavy texture is the preferred choice for autumn and winter suits.

　　在選擇西裝時我們還會看到一個術語——支數，是羊毛面料細膩和柔軟程度的參數，支數越高面料越細膩柔軟，一般商務正裝面料支數在110-130之間。需要注意的是商務正裝面料支數的選擇并不是越高越好，超過150支的面料會非常脆弱易皺，不易打理。

　　When choosing a suit, we also see a term - count, which is a parameter of the fineness and softness of wool fabric. The higher the count, the finer and softer the fabric. Generally, the count of business formal fabrics is between 110-130. It should be noted that the choice of fabric count for business formal wear is not necessarily better, as fabrics with more than 150 counts are very fragile and prone to wrinkling, making them difficult to maintain.

　　面料支數相同的情況下還應該關注克重，即每平米面料的重量。克重越高，面料更飽滿和挺拔。通常春夏季款克重在200-240g，秋冬300g以上，如果需要一套四季通用的商務正裝，260-280g。

　　When the fabric count is the same, attention should also be paid to the weight per square meter of fabric. The higher the weight, the fuller and more upright the fabric. Usually, the weight of spring and summer styles is 200-240g, and autumn and winter styles are over 300g. If you need a set of business suits that are suitable for all seasons, we recommend 260-280g.

　　在支數、克重相同的情況下，影響面料好壞的因素還有羊毛產地、織造工藝。的羊毛主要來自于澳洲、新西蘭的美麗諾（mereno）綿羊，如果預算足夠可選擇英國、意大利面料，這也是市面上高端西裝的選擇；追求性價比的話也可以選擇國產或者韓國羊毛面料。

　　In the case of the same count and weight, the factors that affect the quality of the fabric include the origin of the wool and the weaving process. The top wool mainly comes from Merino sheep in Australia and New Zealand. If the budget is sufficient, you can choose British and Italian fabric brands, which are also the choices for high-end suits on the market; If you pursue cost-effectiveness, you can also choose domestic or Korean wool fabrics.

　　此外，還可以根據個人喜好、穿著場合選擇羊毛織造紋理。純色西裝是通用的，是大部分人套商務正裝的選擇；更進一步追求個性化，還有窗格、格林格、鳥眼、千鳥格、鯊魚紋、魚骨紋、條紋、粉筆條紋的可以選擇。

　　In addition, wool weaving textures can be selected according to personal preferences and wearing occasions. Solid color suits are versatile and the first choice for most people's business attire; Going further in pursuit of personalization, there are also options to choose from, such as window frames, green grids, bird eyes, thousand bird grids, shark patterns, fishbone patterns, stripes, and chalk stripes.

　　在行業內有個說法“面料是西裝的靈魂”，不僅直接影響西裝的色彩、造型，選對面料還可以更好地詮釋西裝的風格，讓人穿上如有加持。

　　There is a saying in the industry that 'fabric is the soul of a suit', which not only directly affects the color and shape of the suit, but also allows people to better interpret the style of the suit by choosing the right fabric, giving it a sense of blessing when worn.

　　商務正裝面料的介紹就到這里了，希望大家都能如愿選到自己的職場“戰衣”。

　　That's all for the introduction of business formal fabrics. I hope everyone can choose their own workplace "battle clothes" as they wish.

　　本文由 濟南工作服  友情奉獻.更多有關的知識請點擊  http://www.lihwa.cn/   真誠的態度.為您提供為的服務.更多有關的知識我們將會陸續向大家奉獻.敬請期待.

　　This article is a friendly contribution from Jinan workwear For more related knowledge, please click http://www.lihwa.cn/ Sincere attitude To provide you with comprehensive services We will gradually contribute more relevant knowledge to everyone Coming soon.